Sarath’s Journal

After managing to Climb Kilimanjaro, i had a pre-planned Safari to Kenya, first with a group of 6 friends and then i had 8 more days of Safari in Masai Mara on my own.

With the Group, from Nairobi, our Safari took us first to Aberdare National Park, where we stayed at the famous Ark. Then we drove to Lake Naivasha, visited Lake Nakuru NP close by and then ended up at Masai Mara for three days. We were very lucky with wildlife sightings and even for me (this is my sixth time in Kenya), there were many first-time sightings.

Aberdare NP

At the Aberdare NP, the notable sighting was the un-commonly seen Giant Forest Hog–these wild pigs are very shy and also quite nocturnal; the only other time i saw them, was at dead of the night here at the Ark. So we were pleasently surprised when a solitary Giant Forest Hog, ambled out of the Forest just before dark to visit the famous salt-lick in front of the Ark.

Of course, there were the usual Elephants, including a Bull with one broken tusk, many African Buffalos and Bush Buck. Just around Dawn we also saw a large Leopard trying to stalk a Bush buck. Leopard sightings are rare in East Africa; so it was a great note to start off our Safari with ( i had no chance of getting a picture a it was too far and light was too low).

Lake Naivasha

At Lake Naivasha, we went on a boat trip (my first in Africa !) and had some good sightings of the Great White Pelicans and other birds like the African Fish Eagle. We also saw the amazing Hippos from up close–Lake Naivasha is a fresh water Rift Valley Lake ( about 100 sq kms in size!) and has a large population of about 800 Hippos ! In fact, the Hippos would come up to the lawns of Naivasha Sopa Lodge, where we were staying, to graze at night and they can be very dangerous to encounter; so we always had guards escorting us to our cottages at night ! Did you know that the wild animal responsible for the highest number of human casualities in Africa is the Hippo ?!

Lake Nakuru NP

Next day we dove to the another Rift Valley Lake nearby, Lake Nakuru NP. This Lake has saline water and is famous for it’s prolific bird life including an amazingly rich Flamingo population–about 2 million of them ! The surrounding National Park (210 sq.km) is also supports rich wildlife including a good density of Leopards. Also Nakuru NP is fully fenced and therefore the KWS ( Kenya Wildlife Services), re-locates any threatened mammals to this Park. For instance, one of the sub-species of Giraffe, The Rothschild’s or the Baringo Giraffe, which was on the brink of extinction in the late 70’s, were re-located to this Park and today there found only here and not anywhere else in the wild ! These are beautiful animals and we got some good views of them including a close sighting of a Bull. Giraffes are such fairy-tale creatures, that i am endlessly fascinated by them and keep stopping to look at them, even if they are the Common or the Masai Giraffes !

Masai Mara National Reserve

Masai Mara is the place to be if you want to see amazing wildlife, specially during the Great Migration. The Migration invovles about 1.4 million Wildebeest ( i prefer the old fashioned name Gnu), about 4,oo,ooo Thomson’s Gazelles and 2,50,000 Zebras, which migrate from Serengeti in Tanzania to a much smaller Masai Mara, attracted by the short grasses brought about by the early rains.With these migrating ungulates comes a lot of other action and excitement of hunting by carnivores like Lions, Cheetahs, Leopards, Hyenas and Crocodiles. Which is why, I always time my trip during July-August-Sept for the Great Migration and every year i come back, i have some incredible encounters with wildlife !

On our very first evening in the Mara we had an amazing sighting of a Serval Cat ( Leptailurus serval) ! This is one of those shy and chiefly nocturnal small Cats ( size about 60 cm at the shoulder and weighs between 8-13 kgs ) of the Savanna and rarely seen during day time ! It was late evening and we saw it for a good ten minutes– the beautifully marked Cat ( markings similar to our Leopard Cat ) was stalking some small prey and we actually saw it jump in the air and pounce on the prey !!

The next day, the most remarkable sighting was Olive Baboons on a hunt ! During the Migration, we can see troops of Olive Baboons stalking the Savanna looking out for hunting opportunities–mainly just-born young of any of the numerous Antelopes species. But we were lucky enough to see some Baboons actually hunt Thomson’s Gazelle calves, which were born perhaps minutes before ! By the time, we got closer, the big male was moving away with the freshly killed prey and it was a grisly sight to see him tear apart the tender calf and devour it !

The next day we came across a Cheetah family–a female with three fully grown cubs; maybe a year old. They were feeding on a kill, which was perhaps made 20 minutes ago. There were already many vehicles surrounding the Cheetahs–this is the negative fall-out of the peak season; too many tourists ! They were just about finishing off the last tit-bits of the kill. What a beautiful sight it was–the family resting together in the shade of the bushes, waiting for the tourists to leave them alone to rest for the day!

One of the big highlights of the Migration is to actually see the Gnus or Zebras cross the Mara or other tributary rivers. This scene has been made so popular by all the TV Channels that tourists think that it is a must-see thing. But i don’t see why it is that important. Nevertheless, we were lucky to see at least two crossings. One was at the famous Mara Triangle area, close to Serengeti. There were at least 30 vehicles waiting at mid-day on the opposite bank of the Mara; apparently no crossing took place in the last 5 days. We waited for some time and the boys got hungry–as we were enjoying our picnic lunch some distance away, we saw some vehicles racing towards the river–we packed away all the stuff in a jiffy and joined the others on the river-bank. We were rewarded with a sight of a Crossing, but some were disappointed that no Crocodiles were lurking there to snap up one of the Wildebeests–how these TV Channels raise and distort your expectations ! Nature is far too large and mysterious than one can imagine–one should learn to Enjoy Nature as it comes and not have any pre-conceived notions and that too distorted by the TV Channels !!

Kichwa Tembo

This pack of friends left after 8 days of Safari–they all were first timers to Africa and each one of them were converted into Africa-addicts ! That’s the Power and Magic of this Great Continent !! I then had a little more than a week for myself–first i went to a great CC Africa Camp called Kichwa Tembo–Swahili for ‘Elephant Head’. This Tented Camp is located in a thick forest patch, on the north- western edge of Masai Mara, bang along the Mara River on one side and the Oloololo Escarpment on the other. It’s a stunningly beautiful location and after a rough 2.5 hour drive from the Ol Kiombo air-strip ( from where my friends took a plane to Nairobi), i was greeted by an Elephant Herd in the forest which surrounds Kichwa Tembo. And as we were having tea, before we left for an evening drive, there was this impressive Bull Elephant, right next to a flimsy fence surrouding the Camp, as if letting us know that He can come in for a rampage, at his own will !

Kichwa is a Camp with a difference, where you have highly trained Naturalists ( called Rangers here) and a high focus on intrepretation of Nature and wildlife. I went on two lovely Nature Walk with Timothy, one of the resident Masai Naturalists and really enjoyed his knowledge and skills. For instance, i told him, as we climbed the Oloololo Escarpment, that i will really like to see, if we can, the Mountain Reed-Buck, which will be a lifer for me–and sure enough, he went out of his way using his skills and we could see a small herd of these very shy Antelopes ! As i absorbed the beauty of the landscape of Masai Mara, from it’s highest point, thick, grey Clouds began to open up !

On one evening drive, we came across a Black Rhino female and her one and half year old Calf–she gingerly led her Calf away to safety from an Elephant herd on one side and some curious tourists in a few vehicles, on the other ! Black Rhinos are very rare animals to sight in the Masai Mara and this was my first sighting in so many years !! I was on Cloud nine, to watch this amazing animal with her endearingly cute Calf tagging along !! Kichwa Tembo uses very comfortable Land Rovers with only six seats and fully open on all sides except the roof. And when it started to drizzle, the Ranger pulled out individual rain-coats for all six of us–such is the attention to detail !

I met Alistair Kilpin, who is the Head Trainer of Rangers for CC Africa in E.Africa and is an accomplished Naturalist. When i asked him to take me on a bird-watching walk to try and see the rare Turacos, he readily agreed–he was so skilled that soon he led me to see the stunningly beautiful Ross’s Turaco and as a bonus we also saw the Double-toothed Barbet, among many other amazing forest birds of the area !!

Adrians Camp

Soon, i had to leave Kichwa and head to another Tented Camp outside Mara called ‘Adrian’s Camp’. This Camp was located amidst raw wilderness about 30 km outside the Mara Reserve in the Buffer area, locally called the ‘Dispersal Area”. Here too , the wildlife is abundant, specially in this season of the Great Migration. There was plenty of Wildebeest and other antelopes and sure enough the Predators ! Every night we were treated to an awesome symphony of Lions calling and roaring, sometimes very close ! The Hyenas were equally vocal with their wider repertoire of calls and Tania, the young camp manager warned us not to leave our shoes outside, as the Hyenas would nibble at them ! The Camp did not have any fence and i thoroughly enjoyed the feeling of true wilderness, with real chances of having wildlife just outside your Tent at night !

I asked for the very last Tent and requested the Masai night guards to wake me up , if they see anything exciting. One morning, the guard was waiting for me outside my tent to tell me that, there were Lions inside the Camp that night ! I asked him if he can show me any signs and when we searched, we found Pug-marks of Lions, a short distance away from my Tent !! That’s how Wild and Exciting, Africa is !!

The same Lions had killed a Topi, not very far away from the Camp and as we drove to Mara that morning, we came across this Pride of four Beautiful, Prime Lionesses on the kill ! But, they were so shy that even one vehicle of our’s parked quitely at a respectable distance, was enough to keep them away in the grass, from the fresh kill ! After a long wait of half-an-hour, one hungry Lioness emerged from the tall grass, but her shyness overcame her hunger and she retreated back into the grass ! That’s really Natural behaviour; a far cry from the Lions of the Reserve, where they are so used to the vehicles that they are un-perturbed by dozens of them surrounding them and go about there routine of hunting, feeding and mating by completely ingnoring them !!

On one of our drives in the Dispersal Area, we saw a flock of Ostriches on a Courtship ballet dance ! It was such an amazing sight, as six female Ostriches began to spread out their wings and dance gracefully to attract the attention of the nearby male, with his jet-black feathers and Pink neck and thighs ( his breeding plumage). He responded and joined his harem in a graceful ballet performance, which left me stunned at their grace and poetry in motion !! Did you know that in Ostriches, both the male and the dominant female share incubation and parenthood duties?!

The ‘piece-de-resistance’, of my stay at the Camp was the stalking of a Massive Bull Elephant on foot ! I saw this Bull at a distance, on a Nature walk, while we were on a nearby hillock. I urged my very reluctant Nature-guide, a local Masai, Benjamin, to go tracking the Bull. Benjamin was very hesitant, saying that it is very dangerous–i somehow convinced him and we set off around mid-day. It was quite hot already and the tall grass we were walking on, flushed out a few resting and startled animals like Hares and Impalas. It was a good two km walk and we finally came within 200 mts of the Bull, who was feeding on a acacia tree, he had pulled down. Benjamin was not willing to go any furthur–i asked him to stay in the grass and i started to crouch and stalk the Bull, testing the wind direction, armed with my camera fitted with a 300 mm lens. As i got within 100 mts of the mammoth, he got a little wary and turned around to face in my direction !! My heart sank and i lay almost flat in the grass ! After, what seemed like eternity, i rose a bit and quickly clicked some pictures of the Bull and retreated quitely, with my heart thumping like a locomotive !! Benjamin was too stunned and excited to speak for a long time ! What an experience in the African bush !!

As i drove out of Masai Mara, i told myself that, Life will not be worth it, if i cannot spend at least one out of the 52 weeks in a year, here in this magical land; every year for the rest of my life !!

( Guys, do check-out the Kenya Safari 2005 Album–hope you enjoy my story !)

Horombo Hut (3470 mts) to Marangu Gate

Woke up, as usual, just before Dawn. Had slept surprisingly well ! It was such a lovely morning with the surrounding sea of Clouds lit up by the morning glow of the Sun. They had flush toilets here..what luxury !
Water to wash, tea and breakfast..all came in quick succession ! My whole team was in a good mood and in a hurry to reach home !

We started at 8 am..a 22 km walk awaits us ! The route was amazingly beautiful..no wonder, this ( the Marangu Route) is the first Route carved out on Kilimanjaro and is still so popular ! It was so busy with traffic..trekkers from all over the world and porters and Guides. In fact, they have two seperate lanes at some places to avoid crowding ! Of course, this also happens to be the busiest season for Climbing.

We first walked through Moorland vegetation. The flora was very interesting, including the Lobelia..which is a bulbous plant adapted to close it’s large petals at night to prevent freezing ! I kept looking back and took many pictures of Kibo and Mawenzi, which soon disappeared behind Clouds. We then walked into the Rainforest zone and were greeted with sights of thick lichens, flowing down from trees like veils of women from ancient Persia !

The Forest zone was unbelievably lush with huge trees, ferns and creepers…and gushing streams..actually, this is what one should expect with a mean annual rainfall of about 2000 mm. There were many stunningly pretty wild-flowers and i took my time to stop by and photograph them. Many of them were endemics like the Impatiens Kilimanjari. We reached Mandara (2720 mts) at 12 noon, had some fruit etc for lunch and continued on our walk . I was hoping to catch a glimpse of an amazing endemic monkey, the Kilimanjaro Colobus..but was’nt so lucky..instead, i saw the Blue Monkeys !

Finally reached Marangu Gate at 3.10 Pm–22 kms, 7 hrs. My team, who had reached long back, were eagerly waiting and so was the car sent to take me back to Spinglands Hotel. Dickson and i went through the check-out fomalities at the Park HQ…they gave me an impressive ‘Gold Cetificate’, for having Climbed all the way to Uhuru Peak ! What impressed me most was that the Certifiacte was issued after proper verification and also had the signature of the Director of Tanzania National Parks and the Park Director in their own hand ! And Dickson had to sign too ! I am going to frame this Certificate and preserve it forever !! I also bought a music CD with the famous Kilimanjaro song, a map and a book from the Park souvenir shop.

Then, we all got into the large car and drove for 45 mins to reach Moshi. There we stopped at Zara Adventures office (my Climbing Company), where the boys were getting off. I tipped them handsomely and bid my farewells. Dickson and i carried on to Springlands. After i unloaded and checked-in, Dickson ceremoniously handed me over the Gold Certificate !

Then came the Event i was very eagerly waiting for the past one week–Shower !! It was sheer Bliss to stand underneath fresh hot water and wash away the dust, sweat and grime of a week..i am a two-shower- a -day person and will Never go to bed without one, however late it may be…you can imagine how much i was looking forward to this Shower !! I told Dickson that i will come to Moshi town ( 5 kms away) for a small celebration, but exhaustion overcame me and i barely had energy to have a beer, some quick dinner and then retired for the night. God, i had a proper bed to sleep and a high roof over my head ! But, the fact the i have Climbed Kilimanjaro…my life long Dream..has’nt Sunk-in at all..not even 10 % !!

Tommorow, i fly to Nairobi, from where i go on a Safari with some great friends !!

( Ok guys, i at last finished with my Kilimanjaro Story..sorry that it took so long to come ! Now, Kalyan my CTO, will be up-loading the Kilimanjaro Album..hope you enjoy the pictures too..remember, i lost an entire lot of my pics of the first 5 days on the Mountain )

This article came last week in the Hindu paper.

The fierce wind, freezing cold, the sharp bites of UV from the just-risen Sun, de-hydration and total mental and physical exhaustion drove me away from Uhuru Peak pre-maturely…i could not savour my moment of truth, as much as i would have liked to ! And the mere thought of descending all the way back to Kibo Camp and then to Horombo Camp– almost ten hours of walking simply haunted me ! So we started to walk back after less than ten minutes on the Summit !

We (i) stumbled back to Gillman’s point somehow..i was feeling too hot now..especially in my legs..we just sat on some rocks and i clumsily peeled off some thermal layers from my body..and stuffed them into my back-pack..it was so dusty !! I drank the rest of the super-sweetened tea and forced myself to eat half an energy bar. I was too tensed about the steep descent and the sharp sun. We began our Descent around 10 am..far too late !

My back-pack has now skewed the center-of-gravity and i found that it was pushing my down..it was very rocky at some places and dangerous ! I was attempting to descend fast and stumbled a few times ! Dickson showed me how to slide down the volcanic scree, which was a mix of rubble and fine dust..i stumbled several times and was coveres with dust ! When i got the technic right, it was fun ! We furthur improvised it by holding one hand and using one walking stick on the other..we came skiing down the slope rapidly ! I was covered with dust but did’nt mind it.

Finally, Kibo was in sight..Emanual and William came to meet us at the base of the peak. As i walked into the Camp, Alfan and Rajab warmly congratulated me..i was too Exhausted..the time was 12.20..more than 12 hours since we started our Climb !! Dived into my tent and peeled off all my warm clothes..it was so hot ! I just lay exhausted in the tent, although it was very hot in there. The worst part is that we have to move to Horombo Camp..3-4 hours of more walking !! I packed hurriedly, refused food..was too exhausted..and we started our walk at 2.10 pm.

Kibo to Horombo Hut

The only luxury i conceded was that Williams will carry my back-pack. We walked on the Saddle towards Horombo. The Landscape was stark but hauntingly beautiful…Dickson and i talked a lot..i was relaxed but also very upset and depressed that all my images on the digital camera were erased. The camera was working now and i took lots of pictures of Kibo Peak , Mawenzi and the landscape. Strangely, i did not have any body aches..all my tough training was such a help !

Finally reached Horombo at 5.40 pm..more than 17 hours of being on my feet ! While i was checking-in, the Ranger offered beer..i checked if it is Kilimanjaro beer and was happy that it was indded that ! I bought two beers and i and Dickson celebrated our Climb to Uhuru !! I also realised that mobiles were working too and i used Dickson’s phone to send a SMS (it went, surprisingly!) to the world about my conquest of Uhuru !

It was already so cold at 6.15 pm that we had to retire to our tents ! I quickly un-packed, ate some thing hurriedly and crashed out..my last night in the tent !!

Kibo Hut Camp–26th August (mid-night of 25th August)

I could sleep only for about an hour..could not hold my excitement anymore..sprang out of tent at 10.30 itself ! Began my preperations..dressing up etc..it was not as cold as i expected it to be and the half-moon was out and it was beautiful !

At 11.00 pm sharp, Alfan emerged and got me some tea..i shouted for Dickson and he shouted back from his tent: “Pole, pole !” He could make out the haste and over-enthusiasm in my voice ! He too emerged after a little while and helped me with the rest of ramping up..with wearing my gaitors etc and checking with my other clothes and equipment.

Into Thin Air !!

We finally left 10 minutes past mid-night. I was walking like an astronaut taking the space-shuttle, with all the layers on my body and my head-gear ! I was intially uncomfortable and clumsy in my walk, but soon i found my rhythm. I could see a few head-lamps above me , but below me were a few long chains of lights..like giant caterpillars moving up the mountain trail !

I let Dickson set the pace and faithfully followed his footsteps..the narrow beam from my head-lamp was shining on his shoes and the rhythmic swish-swish noise as we prodded along on the volcanic scree, still rings in my ears ! Luckily, it was’nt too cold and even the wind was really not a bother. After an hour or so, i felt we were making good progress…i even did not stop too many times for rest. After two hours, while we rested, i asked Dickson, if we were close to Hans Meyers Cave, which is at 5200 mts…he told me that it was still very far away! After 3 hours of very hard walking on the steep and difficult path, Dickson announced that we reached ‘William’s Point’ , which is 5000 mts ! God..we only covered 300 mts in 3 hours ! All my initial enthusiasm amd optimism vanished in thin air !! At this point, Dickson offered to take my back-pack…i gave it to him without any hesitation; which is so un-like my character ! No room for any false pride here !

After making very slow progress for another 100 mts, Dickson did something stunning..he miraculously produced a flask of hot tea ! I almost could’nt believe my eyes ! More than giving me a physical relief, the amazing thoughtfullness on his part had huge psychological impact on me ! I started to walk with a spring in my step after that point and soon we reached Hans Meyers Cave !

At about 5.30 am, we reached very rocky terrain, where the path vanished. The Eastern horizon had a faint glow of light on it and i wanted to wait for the sun-rise, right there. Dickson was wanting to reach Gillman’s Point, which was a logical thing to do..as it was barely 50 mts away and everyone watches sun-rise from there ! He did not understand my view that i wanted to watch the entire process of sun-rise and not just the Sun emerging out. I just plonked myself on the rocks and waited for the Nature’s spectacular display !

I also got my much-wanted rest while waiting there..it was a beautiful sight to watch the horizon light up gradually in a pink-crimson glow…i took out my camera to take many pictures…Dickson just waited, impatiently ! After 45 minutes, after the Sun touched the rim of the horizon, i signalled to Dickson and we started towards Gillman’s..without much fuss, i covered that distance !

Gillman’s Point–5685 mts !

Dickson started to congratulate me for making it to Gillman’s point..i merely waved to him and breezed past him, shouting “Uhuru,Uhuru”, and walked past him..he was very impressed and followed me without a fuss ! A lot of people consider reaching Gillman’s Point itself as a major landmark, after all it’s reaching the top of Kibo Peak , and turn back. But i wanted to reach Uhuru Peak, The Roof of Africa, and nothing short of it !

All my research on the Net told me that Uhuru is about 45 mins from Gillman’s..i somehow thought i can easily make it now..how badly i was mistaken ! I saw some people on a peak some distance away and asked Dickson, if that was Uhuru..he said, ‘NO’ and pointed out to a place, which was seemingly miles away !! My heart sank !! Suddenly it seemed an impossible task ! I stuggled to cover every inch after that ! I never thought i will make it..almost gave up..Dickson egged me on..it was Extremely windy and soon the Sun was beating down on me ( it was still cold !). I wore my sun-goggles and covered the terrain inch-by-inch ! Many people were walking back after making it to Uhuru..that motivated me..i have to make it somehow !

UHURU PEAK–The Roof of Africa–5895 mts !!

At last, somehow, drawing my last ounce of energy, both physical and mental, i make it to Uhuru ! The time i took to reach there tells it all..two long hours, instead of 45 mins !! (to climb a mere 210 mts !). I just could’nt believe it ! But, i did’nt have the time to let it Sink in , even a bit..it was so windy and i was so Exhausted that… all i wanted was to get out from there as soon as i can !! And also the prospect of descending all the way back to Kibo Hut and furthur walking to Horombo was Daunting !

Mawenzi Tarn Hut

Another sleepless night..it was also freezing cold..was tossing about like a beached whale all night ! Finally, out by 6 am..another beautiful morning..the cold was gradually neutralised by the Sun. After all the morning chores and breakfast, we started walking by 8.40 am.

Once we broke through the Geology of Mawenzi itself, Kibo breaks into view and it’s imposing and raw beauty haunts you throghout the walk to Kibo Hut. The habitat was ‘Highland or Alpine Desert’, where it is ’summer everday and winter every night’. There is intense radiation and also wide fluctuations in day and night temperatures. Thus, only very hardy plants survive. The landscape was exactly like Ladakh..bleak, with wide , open vistas and stunningly beautiful. Kibo was lording over us and others who were walking ahead were looking like ants crawling towards it ! Views changed every minute and i took hundreds of pictures ! The intensity of the sun was evident and i got sun-burnt, specially on my neck, despite the sun-block i used..maybe, i should have applied it more liberally.

Kibo Hut Camp–4700 mts

After a steady ‘pole,pole’ trek of 4.5 hours, we arrived at Kibo Hut at 13.10 hrs. The Camp was quite crowded..the main Huts were many and at least 20 tents were pitched..mine was, as usual, pitched at the far end, below some rocks..it was a real climb to visit the toilets ! I un-packed a bit..tried a nap, without success..then started checking-out stuff for the Summit.

This was my equipment check-list for the Summit:

a) Clothes–upper body: 3 layers of thermals+1 woollen full sleeve T-shirt+fleece coat+ wind-proof outer jacket
b) Lower body: 3 thermal layers+thick woollen pant+ ski pants+ gaitors
C) Feet: 2 thin woollen socks+ one thick pair of woollen socks+ Climbing shoes
d) Head: one thick monkey cap+thick balaclava+muffler
e) Hands: two pairs woollen gloves+ one pair mountain gloves (wind-proof)
f) Other equipment: Head-light; sun-goggles; knee-guard; mountain walking sticks
g) In my back-pack: Water, camera, sun-block, spare batteries, sun-block, disposable camera, hand towel

Discussed the equipment and other preperations with Dickson.It was very cold already..Alfan got me some special potato stew..had as much i could have of that..wake-up call was fixed for 11.o0 pm..Ascent at mid-night.
Retired to my tent at 7 pm..tried to get some sleep..but was too Excited for that !

Acclimatisation and Rest Day

Last night too was a loong and a tough one..primarily because i could Not sleep at all !! I had got over my fears and clautrophobia, but just could’nt sleep ! Had all kinds of weird dreams..checked my watch a hundred times..finally, at the first signs of dawn, i leaped out of my tent ! Did’nt feel too good..a bit nauseous too. Had lots of hot tea and strolled around..felt a lot better.

This was my Acclimatisation Day and although i was not tired at all, i welcomed it as i wanted to do everything as recommended by experts to increase my chances to reach the Summit ! For breakfast, Alfan got an omlette with the bread and i refused that..he gets it back with this comment,” Mr.Dick says you should get strong for the Mountain”; i promptly demolished it !

After breakfast, Dickson, i and Williams went for an acclimatisation walk, the Mountain principle being ” Walk high and sleep low”. We climbed about 150 mts to the ridge, behind our Camp..it was already cold and windy ! From the edge of the ridge, we got some great views of Kibo, who was hiding from me , whole of yesterday.Even our Camp-site was looking so pretty from that height . I took many pictures. We descended from a different path; the exercise took 2 hrs.

From my vantage position up there, i could see many porters coming into our Camp-site. By the time, i emerged from my tent after a short rest, there were at least 15 tents, apart from the mess tents and other tents of supporting crew . For lunch, i hardly had any appetite. I wrote my journal and read a bit. Tried to catch some sleep, but had no luck . Just lay in the tent..Tent-life at 4330 mts in Africa ! I am a poor tropical boy from South India, who never stayed in a tent for so many days..that too in this altitude and in this cold !!

Strolled outside a bit; thought 2 layers inside my track-suit will be enough…i was wrong..had to dash inside my tent to fortify myself ! It was only 3.00 pm..imagine the night ! Stay focussed kid..you have to make it to the top ! I met an American lady, who was a part of a 8-member team camping next to my tent..she said that the wind was more of a concern to her than the cold, on the Summit day. Talked of some political things too..the views of the Clouds swirling around Mawenzi were changing by the minute..took many photographs.

It was finally evening and Alfan announced supper..today i had some soup and MTR Sambar rice ! Walked about a bit, before i got back to the tent. Stepped out once at 7.30 and the night sky was astounding ! But the cold and the strong breeze forced me to get back into my tent . It was freezing cold inside too. Will i get some sleep tonight?!

Kikelewa Camp

Dawn put an an end to most of my woes..from 3.10 am, i was up waiting for day-break..finally at 5.45 am, i burst out of the tent, fully clothed for the Cold ! A beautiful dawn awaited me..the Sea of Clouds..lit up by the crimson glow of the about-to-rise Sun…the Moon and the few remaining Stars still glowing and Kibo’s snows lighting up in the soft glow of the Sun ! It was so peaceful and serene outside my tent ! I felt ashamed of all the tumult i have been through, when Nature is so serene and dignified in it’s majesty ! The scenery and the rising Sun literally blew away my blues..i was actually embarassed with myself ! Also realised how much we take the Sun for granted.. sunlight has such power and such therapeutic value !! How could i have woken up Dickson with such silly concerns? I began to ‘psyche’ myself out of my last night’s mental status..thought about the lovely story i read about ‘Mama Tembo’..a 50+ woman, who made it to the Top..about a meaningful quote i read “It’s not your aptitude, but your Attitude, that determines your Altitude “…

By the time Dickson emerged from his tent, i was sufficiently cheerful to ask him, ‘Habari..how was your night?!’
He was happy to see me in that mood and we laughed about my last night and began preparing for the day..started to walk towards Mawenzi at 9.30 am.

It was a steady but a steep walk through rocky terrain. The vegetation was short shrubs with a sprinkling of pretty wild flowers. I saw some amazingly beautiful ‘ Senecio’ plants..tall bulbous structures, some with beautiful yellow flowers on top. Some valleys had a profusion of them. We could see Mawenzi looming ahead but Kibo was hidden from our view. I took the dictum of ‘Pole, pole’ very seriously and walked slowly, in a conscious way. Also i drank a lot of water..i got over the smell of the springwater etc..i actually had 2 litres on the walk itself ! I, thus, followed both the golden rules and felt so much better, by the time, i got to the Camp !

Mawenzi Tarn Hut–4330 mts

What a spectacular setting for our Camp ! The looming Mawenzi Peak ( mawenzi= broken rock, in Swahili ) formed a formidable backdrop to our Camp and our tiny tents were looking so insignificant and vulnerable in contrast! Mawenzi had a very jagged profile and is deceptively tall..5149 mts ! It is almost as tall as Mt.Kenya (5199 mts), the second highest Mountain in Africa ! I believe Mawenzi gets it’s own snow in winter and some years back, it had snow for many more months..now it was bare, solid rock..it had absolutely no vegetation whatsoever.

The Sun was intense and i had to scurry into my Tent. Alfan brought me a big bowl of carrot soup and cutely tells me, “You should finish this my brother..Mr.Dick says that it is good for the Mountain!” I promptly finished it like an obedient schoolboy ! I had the rest of the lunch too inside the tent and rested for some time. When i stepped out at 3.45 pm, Mawenzi was shrouded in a swirl of Clouds and it was looking so spectacular, set against a deep blue sky !

I walked across to the other side of the Camp and chatted up with my camp-mates..two young American women and a father of one of them. There was also a German photographer and his 12-yr old daughter, Tamara, who is also attempting the Summit ! As i was talking to them, the Clouds closed in and it was began to get cold..i got back to wear my thermals..asked Rajab, my cook to make me some Dal (ready-to-eat), which i got from India..anyway, he was making some rice. Had a decent dinner and retired..dreaded the long night !
Stepped out once, fully clothed..balaclava, gloves etc ! Settled down, read for some time..and tried to get some sleep..

Simba Camp ( or First Cave)

Woke up around 5.00 am itself..had slept resonably well..got out of my tent at 5.50 am, to find dew everywhere..it was quite cold too. Dawn was about to break..it was a great morning ! An amazingly beautiful sight unfolded in front of me..to my North,the Kenyan plains were covered in a sea of Clouds, as the gently rising Sun lit up the Eastern horizon in a crimson glow.To my South was Kibo (the Main Peak ) and her crown had tufts of snow, now reflecting the crimson glow ! And the Moon also was still aglow ! It was a simply bewitching scenery !

Water to wash..coffee..breakfast..packing up..we started to walk at 9 am.

The landscape changed to what is called as ‘Heath’, which is shrub-like vegetation and the vistas were open and scenic. There were many pretty wild flowers and could also spot some insects like grass-hoppers and even a skink ! A few birds i saw were: Alpine Chat, a Robin like bird, with a cute chirpy call; White-naped Raven, a huge Crow with a massive mean-looking beak ! Also saw a Mountain Buzzard in flight. There was some scat too and i thought it was from Jackals. Caught up with Kennedy, a co-ordinator working with an International Aid Agency (US Aid), which organised the Expedition of the school children. I believe all these kids are winners of an essay writing competetion on AIDS Awareness..i got new-found respect for them now ! Kennedy was a nice guy and we got chatting..i did’nt realise that i gave him lot of ‘gyan’, until he made a parting comment, ‘Thank you for your eloquent company and i will pray that you will Climb the Summit!’ They were taking a different route after the Second Cave, our lunch spot, which we reached after 3 hrs of comfortable walking.

The views of the Clouds covering the plains below were stunning ! We then began to climb steadily through very rocky terrain..the shrubs began to thin out. Kibo, the main Volcanic Peak and it’s companion, Mawenzi came into view and the views were spectacular ! Clouds began to wrap around Kibo and protect her from the eyes of mere mortals..

After about 3 hrs of walking we reached our Camp-site–Kikelelwa Camp–3645 mts..time was 15.45 hrs.
My tent was already pitched and Alfan welcomed us with some hot tea, with peanuts and biscuits. I un-packed and when i emerged from my tent, it was already getting Dark and Cold ! There were only 2 other tents in the Camp-site..i was happy that i chose Rongai route..it is indeed un-crowded !

I asked for early dinner and by 6 pm, i was forced to retreat into my tent because of the mounting cold and the wind ! I settled down to what turned out to be a nightmare of a night ! I felt very claustrophobic in my sleeping bag and in my low tent..so much that i rushed out into the cold night just to get some air ! My slight headache became aggravated..felt nauseous too..my mind playing tricks on me ? I even woke up Dickson..then i could’nt sleep at all..gosh, i looked at my watch a hundred times through the looong night..had all kinds of crazy thoughts…thought i should abort my attempt and get back to Moshi…

Moshi–Base Town–20th August 2005

Was up by 6 am. Lots of packing and re-packing..had a quick breakfast etc…Dickson, my Mountain Guide and the Team was there by 8.30 am..last minute issues..my camel-bak water bladder sprouted a leak ! The damn thing is supposed to be a high-quality contraption used by the US Marines and all that crap…!! And i spent a lot of money and energy sourcing it..it is also supposed to be thermally insulated..for use on the Summit Day !

I stepped out of Springlands (my hotel) at 9.11 am..the Crown of Kilimanjaro was visible..those alluring Snows..but It looked so High and lost in the Clouds !! And so Daunting !!

I scrambled into the Van with my baggage and Gear..and we headed in a NE direction. It was a long drive..we stopped near Marangu Gate for the Permits..and continued. The road deteriorated into lunar-scape and also was very dusty..we entered Kenya briefly and finally made it to the Rongai Gate of Kilimanjaro National Park..after almost 4 hrs !

I made my Check-in entries in the Park Register..out of curiosity i checked the entries for the last year..the Nations from which most Climbers came were: Italy, France, U.K, Spain, Canada, Australia, South Africa..there was Not a single Indian in the entire year !! There was a big Group of Tanzanian School children preparing for the Climb…

We started from Rongai Gate ( 2035 mts ) at 14.30 hrs..at last i am on the Mountain !! I started off with my familiar fast pace..Dickson immly shouted, ‘Pole Pole !’…Slowly, Slowly ! I realised my folly…this is Not Bollu Gudda in Bandipur !! We walked past maize fields, where little kids rushed out to greet us cutely, ‘Jambo, Jambo !’ Soon we got into the Forest Zone..lush vegetation and was already getting dark inside. The path was steadily climbing and i also realised that my back-pack was quite heavy ! As i was bracing up for tougher terrain, we reached our Camp-site ! It took us a comfortable 2.5 hrs to reach Simba Camp..the time was 17.00 hrs.

Simba Camp (2655 mts )

My tent was already set up ! It was a nice, lavender coloured Dome tent..my home for the next 6 nights !
Alfan, my Butler, brought me hot water to wash and some coffee with fresh pop-corn and biscuits ! This was only a beginning of what turned out to be sheer pampering with great food and service, throughout my Climb..something i did’nt expect at all !

When i un-packed and emerged from my tent, Alfan announced Soup..it was a delicious carrot soup ! Then followed by an crazy spread of potatoes, bread, veg. sauce, fresh fruit for dessert and coffee !! Dickson advised me to eat well as i as my appetite will go down as i Climb higher. I spoke to Dickson about his back-ground etc.. we discussed the Route..it was already dark and getting cold..i could hear songs from the school children, who set up Camp nearby. I retired into my tent around 8 pm, sorted out stuff, got into my sleeping bag, read for some time and slept…